The chain slack must be maintained to proper specifications. In particular, it must not be too tight or this will result in premature wear and performance loss.

The chain is an O-Ring type 530, with 116 links, model 50ZVM by Daido.

The slack specification is 40-50 mm (1.57 - 1.97 in.).

The spec for any ten link section is 150.1 mm (5.91 in.). The limit is 152.5 mm (6.00 in.).

To Check Drive Chain Slack:

• Place Bike on Centerstand
• Place Transmission in Neutral
• Rotate Wheel to Find Tightest Point of Chain (I Couldn't Find any Variation)
• Verify Chain is Within Specifications, 40-50 mm, 1.57-1.97 in. and Adjust if Necessary (A Correctly Adjusted Chain May Still Hit the Bottom of the Swingarm at the Top of Travel)

1600 x 1200

The chain slack is the distance between where it rests (pretty close to how far down you can push it) and how far up you can push it. In this picture the rest position is shown with the yellow hand at the bottom pointing to the top of the chain as it rests. The yellow hand at the top should be the position of the top of the chain with it as far up as you can push up on it. This should be 40-50 mm (1.57 to 1.97 inches). I have mine set so that it barely contacts the bottom of the swingarm as it is pushed up.

To Adjust the Drive Chain Slack:

Loosen Rear Axle

• Loosen Brake Caliper Bracket Bolt
• Loosen Rear Axle Nut
• Loosen Chain Adjusting Bolt Lock Nuts
• Tightening Chain Slack Adjusting Bolts will Allow Wheel to be Pushed Forward
• Push Wheel Forward or Backwards to Increase or Decrease Slack On Chain

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• Adjust Left Chain Adjusting Bolt Until Chain Slack is 40-50 mm, 1.57-1.97 in. (My Chain Does Hit the Bottom of Swingarm at Top of Travel)
• Keep Pushing Wheel Forward to Make Sure Slider Block is Up Against Adjusting Bolt

1600 x 1200

• Verify Rear Wheel is Straight on Swingarm by Adjusting Right Chain Adjusting Bolt
• Verify Wheel Axle Slide Plates are Fully Forward Butting Up Against Left and Right Chain Adjusting Bolts
• Tighten Rear Axle Adjusting Bolt Lock Nuts (16 Nm, 12 lb-ft)

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• Tighten Wheel Axle Nut (150 Nm, 108 lb-ft)
• Tighten Brake Caliper Bracket Bolt (23 Nm, 17 lb-ft)
• Recheck Wheel Straightness After Tightening by Verifying Distance from Ends of Slider Blocks To End of Swingarm on Both Sides
• An Excellent Article on Chain Maintenance, Slack Checking, and Adjusting can be Found Here

Addendum:

After installing the 47-tooth rear sprocket the wheelbase decreased and the distance from the slider block to the end of the swingarm increased as shown. This is with the 15-tooth front sprocket installed also.

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Last Updated: 08-16-2004

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The information presented here reflects solely my personal experience with my motorcycle and is presented for entertainment purposes only. No information presented here is to be relied upon for issues of rider safety nor to replace the services of a qualified service technician. Any attempts to follow or duplicate any of these procedures are done so completely at your own risk. By reading the information on this site, you agree to assume complete responsibility for any and all actual or consequential damages that may arise from any information presented herein.