I have a passenger peg rubber bumper only on one side, is the other one missing?
No. The rubber piece is to isolate the exhaust system from vibration. That is only on the right side. There should be no matching
rubber piece on the left.
A successful technique used by many has been to first soften the sticker glue with a hair dryer then apply WD40 and scrape the
stickers off with your fingernails. Those stickers are on real good and it will take some time taking off just a little bit at a time. The
WD40 should not damage the paint or windscreen but you should satisfy yourself of this by applying a small amount to a test area
first. Continue scraping applying dryer heat and WD40 until the sticker and glue is gone then clean up the area with a mild detergent like
Simple Green. Another product that can prove effective is Goo-Gone. There has been a report, however, of the Goo-Gone being
difficult to clean up from the windscreen afterwards.
Ivan is Ivan Rovinsky of Ivan's Performance Products located in Rockland County, New York.
He is recognized expert in the field of motorcycle performance and has taken extraordinary steps in developing products for this bike.
His approach is to develop and test each and every product personally on his own bike. His jet kit was developed through repeated
cycles of needle modification followed by actual dyno testing. What sets Ivan apart is that he personally provides telephone support and answers each and every question you might have.
If you want a Yosh exhaust without the logo riveted on for that factory look he can get it, and at discount prices.
Written by a satisfied customer.
The main decision is whether to go with a slip-on or a full exhaust system. Go with a full system if you regularly
ride at greater than 8000 rpm. There you will enjoy the full benefits. Full systems are quite a bit more expensive than slip-ons.
Two choices are the Yoshimura or the Akrapovic. The Akrapovic is more expensive, louder, and makes a bit more power. Hindle
and Leo Vinci also make full systems. You will want
to rejet the carbs if you go the full system route. You also lose the benefits of the exhaust valve. If your riding style is
such that full throttle, greater than 8000 rpm runs are infrequent then a slip-on is a better choice. A slip-on provides a nice
mid-range to high rpm boost with an acceptable loss at the low end. Rejetting reclaims the low end and boosts the mid-range and
high-end even more. Choice of slip-on is mostly a personal choice based on tolerance to noise level, appearance, and cost.
The Factory aftermarket exhaust is among the noisiest, the Yoshimura Zyclone among the quietest. As you would expect, the factory unit
produces a slightly better performance boost than the Zyclone.
Other loud cans are the D&D, MIG, TBR, and Factory aftermarket unit. In the middle are the Akra, Micron, Hindle, and Leo Vinci. Additional quiet
ones are the Hindle stealth and the Euro spec Leo Vinci.
The 5 mm Allen head bolt that holds down the front of the fuel tank seems to have a tendency to work itself loose. Many members
have reported returning from rides to find the bolt gone. If this happens to you, you can use temporarily one of the 5 mm bolts that
attaches the side plates just above the shift lever on the left or just above the brake pedal on the right. Use of blue loctite is
recommended when replacing the bolt as well as torquing it down to its specification, 7.2 lb-ft, 10 Nm.
From the service manual: Technical Specifications Page
Lockhart-Phillips Speedscreens
Memphis Shades Hellcat and Demon
Factory Touring Screen (part# ABA-5LV03-00)
European Smoked Touring Screen
More windscreen data on IowaZ' site here
The Corbin seat is different than the stock seat. It is firmer for better useability on long rides. It
gives the bike a nice appearance with the quality leather. It weighs about
5-6 lb more than the stock seat. Its design does place you a bit further
away from the tank. The back of the dish is a little too far back for some but
provides nice support for the lower back when you scoot back or are pressed
back under acceleration. It's taller by about an inch for a longer reach to
the ground or additional leg space to the pegs. If you are tall then none of
these is an issue. Corbin will customize the seat for you if you don't mind the long wait.
You must decide if its worth the money. Buying directly from Corbin saves about $100.
The most popular replacement grips seem to be the Pro Grip model 719 Gel grips. These come in a variety of colors, blue/black,
grey/black, black/black. They are 125 mm long, a bit longer than the stock grips. They also are available in open end and closed end
types. The bike has bar end weights so the open end models will keep you from having to cut the ends open yourself.
After unscrewing the end weights, remove the stock grips with compressed air and a flat blade screwdriver. Some just cut them off
and throw the pieces out. You may need to unscrew the switchgear on each side and move it in a bit to make room for the new,
longer grips.
There are a number of ways to secure the new grips in place. All of these have been found to work. There is grip glue, alcohol, water,
hair spray, nothing. Whatever you choose, make sure the grips don't slide on the bar. Think about the rain and what may be an
adhesive in the dry will become a lubricant when wet.
As far as anyone knows, there is no difference between the 2001 and 2002 models. The 2002 model is available is the Silver color
not available in 2001. There was a difference in the published compression ratios (11.4 for 2001 vs. 11.8 for 2002) but that is
apparently a misprint and does not reflect a change in the engine.
There are some slight cosmetic differences. 2002 bikes have darker decals on the fairing. Also, the 2001 seat has additional
stiching on the passenger portion.
Poor Man's Undertail
Tire pressure (use factory recommendations):
Preload:
Both Front and Rear - Set suspension sag for your weight such that in a
normal riding position your weight takes up the first third of the suspension travel.
That will be near standard (position 2) on the front and two positions out (position 9) from maximum
on the rear (standard is position 6).
Compression Damping:
Rebound Damping:
This is a somewhat controversial question. You won't go wrong with the factory recommended Yamalube 4 (20W40) or SAE 20W40
type SE motor oil. But can you do better? Whatever you do it seems that you should wait until at least 2,000 miles before
doing it to give the engine time to completely settle in.
The bike is a wet clutch system and there is some body of opinion that warns against introducing excessively slick oils
for reasons of possible clutch slippage. Mobil makes a version of their Mobil 1 synthetic specifically for motorcycles,
Mobil 1 MX4T 10W40. This oil has less of an additive called ZDDP that is a friction reducer. There have not been any reports
of anyone having trouble using this oil. Some actually report significantly better running with it. Other
synthetic brands may be equally good. Some report using regular Mobil 1 automotive synthetic oil 15W50 which reportedly
also has reduced amount of ZDDP with no problems.
Here is IowaZ' Oils Page.
Another Oil Report.
Here is an older article comparing automobile vs. motorcycle oils.
The recommended fuel for USA is simply 'unleaded.'
A fuel's octane number indicates its ability to resist detonation. It is not a measure of its energy content or how much power
an engine can produce that uses it. Those components in the fuel that give it a high octane rating themselves require more
energy to burn. That energy must come from the fuel itself leaving less remaining for the engine to produce.
Even though the engine has a high compression ratio of 11.4:1 it can use a lower octane fuel. This is because the engine
itself is small compared to an automobile's and is manufactured primarily of lightweight aluminum.
It is recommended to use the middle grade of fuel, or 89 octane.
Factory dealers have 'PJ1 Coatings Blue 1998-2001 Lacquer Paint' Part# PJ011027. Also 'Metallic Silver Case Paint'
rated to 500 degrees, Part# 17-SLV.
The factory recommended break in procedure is designed to minimize early life problems and not necessarily to produce the best
performing engine. Race engines are broken in on a dyno in a very short period of time.
The consensus seems to be that a break in procedure which will produce an engine with the highest power output focuses on
repeated heat cycles with incremental increases in both rpm and load over the break in period. So, what you should do is to break in
your engine with numerous short duration rides that bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to fully cool
between each of those rides. Each ride should slowly increase the maximum rpm at which you bring the engine. In addition, you
should also slowly increase the load on the engine. That is, the amount the engine must struggle to achieve rpm. For example, full
throttle, up hill, in top gear is high load. At the end of the break in period you are running up to redline at full throttle.
The worst thing you can do is to run at a steady rpm for a long period of time. That does nothing to break in the engine and actually
does harm by introducing uneven wear upon critical engine parts.
Here is an excellent article on Engine Break-In.
Another interesting technique.
Pull your #1 plug wire and blow in the hole and you will see it goes directly to the plugs and acts as a drain for the spark plug gallery.
If coolant is coming out that hole, 95% chance it is coming from the vertical coolant pipes coming out the top
of the head. Check the clamps and make sure they are tight. If they are tight, loosen the clamps, reposition
the hose and then retighten. If these hoses leak any fluid, it will find its way to the drain hole and leak out.
If it is not a loose hose, then you may have a bad O-ring on the base of the coolant standpipe. If that
is not the case then you may have a crack in the head somewhere.
Thanks to yamahablue for this.
These are not personal recommendations but are a compilation of contributions from Owners Association members.
FILTER WRENCHES
Wal-Mart SuperTech ST7317 works fine (just a tad bit longer than the stock filter).
Another good filter is the Purolator PureOne PL14610 available at autoparts stores like Pep Boys or Advance Auto.
From arkie6: For a filter wrench, I picked up this 3 jawed model that works great on just about any size filter.
It uses a 3/8" drive ratchet and extension as necessary. I has three jaws that grip the end of the filter.
The harder you turn it counterclockwise, the tighter they get. It works really well on the FZ1.
I got mine at AutoZone for ~$6. I've seen the same wrench at NAPA as well.
Here is a picture of it.
From ice cream: K&N 303 great filter and no oil filter wrench is needed. It has a 17mm nut welded onto the filter
for easy removal and can be torqued on to spec.
From facerG8R: Advance Auto Parts, Cup Type Oil Filter Wrench, 65 mm., 14 flutes. AmPro Part # T70413. About $6.00 Fits
the Yamaha OEM filter and the Puolator. 3/8 drive socket extension fits and you can use a rachet to loosen and a
torque wrench to tighten
SPARK PLUGS
OIL FILTERS (Contributed by EffZee1)
Last Updated: 09-02-2005
Copyright © 2001-05, Patrick Glenn, All Rights Reserved.
The information presented here reflects solely my personal experience with my motorcycle and is presented
for entertainment purposes only. No information presented here is to be relied upon for issues of rider safety
nor to replace the services of a qualified service technician.
Any attempts to follow or duplicate any of these procedures are done so completely at your own risk.
By reading the information on this site, you agree to assume complete responsibility for any and all actual
or consequential damages that may arise from any information presented herein.
What's the best way to remove all those stickers?
Who is Ivan and how do I buy his jet kit?
What are the aftermarket exhaust options?
What's up with that front fuel tank hold down bolt?
What are the torque specs for all the bolts?
What are the options for a better windscreen?
Is the Corbin seat worth the money?
What are best replacement grips?
What's the difference between '01 and '02 models?
Model Year 2001
(5LV5) JYARN07E*1A000007
(5LV7) JYARN07Y*1A?????? (California)
Model Year 2002
(5LVB) JYARN07E*2A002800
(5LVC) JYARN07Y*2A000302 (California)
What are the undertail choices?
What are the best shock settings?
Front - 36 psi
Rear - 39 psi (up to 198 lb load), 42 psi (more than 198 lb load)
Front - Try 8 clicks out to start, 2 clicks softer than standard (standard is 6 clicks out from fully turned in position)
Rear - Try standard to start (7 clicks in from fully turned out position)
Front -Try 9 clicks out to start, 2 clicks softer than standard (standard is 7 clicks out from fully turned in position)
Rear - Try standard to start (10 clicks out from fully turned in position)
Should I use synthetic oil?
What octane fuel should I use?
What are the paint codes for the various colors?
Code
Color-Rite Code
Name
Abbreviation
564
5815U
Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C
DPBMC
04B
5492UL/5492-1U/1492U
Black 2
BL2
0MA
5860
Titanic Gray Metallic
Frame Color
Code
Color-Rite Code
Name
Abbreviation
0564
5815
Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C
DPBMC
004B
1492/5492-1
Black 2
BL2
0791
5175
Silver 3
S3
0MA
5860
Titanic Gray Metallic
Frame Color
What's the real proper break-in procedure?
What is that small hole on the left side of the engine?
What are some generic parts that can replace factory parts?
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