With the recent installation of the Multi-Gauge I became more aware of the voltage levels on the bike and the drain caused by the headlights. European Fazers have the ability to switch off the headlights and preserve battery voltage. This is useful when running the starter with the ignition on and also to assist with battery charging with the engine running. Being able to switch off the headlights can lengthen the life of the battery and provide an option that could enable the engine to operate just a while longer when the battery was on its last legs. The downside is that there is a decreased level of safety when running without headlights.
For the current condition of my battery, the multi-gauge shows that the engine off voltage level is 9.8 Volts with lights on but that switching the lights off raises the available voltage to 11.4 Volts. When cruising (> 2000 rpm) the multi-gauge shows 12.2 Volts with lights on but 13.7 Volts with lights off.
The switch is a simple Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) rocker type with snap mounting that matches the plastic of the left fairing insert.
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The switch mounts on the left fairing insert so that it can be actuated with the left hand while riding and maintaining throttle and also because there is a convenient tap into the headlight wiring harness nearby. I made the mounting hole for the switch with the left fairing insert still in place to make sure the voltage rectifier/regulator and my left horn does not interfere. I started by carefully drilling a few 1/8" holes then expanding them to 1/4" to connect them when I was happy with the location of the hole. The hole is then slowly squared out and expanded with a flat file until the switch will push in and snap into place.
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Next, remove the left fairing insert. This shows the right, the left is the same.
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Locate the two white electrical connectors under the left fairing insert and disconnect them. Push on the tabs to release the securing clips then work them apart. You disconnect them both so that you can pull them out for easy access. Then pull the side out coming from the rear of the bike. This is where you will tap in.
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I hate to do this but cut the stock yellow/red wire shown, bare both ends of this 16 gauge wire, and crimp connectors onto the ends. I used a male and female bullet pair in case they would ever need to be reconnected together again in the future.
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Make connecting wires to the switch about 10"-12" long with the opposite bullet connectors on one end and insulated female spade connectors on the other for the switch. Attach these to the bullet connectors on the bike's wiring you just crimped on. Reconnect the ends of the two white connectors on the wiring harness. Then connect the female spade ends of the two connecting wires you made to the switch.
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Reinstall the left fairing insert and test.
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Last Updated: 10-21-2005
Copyright © 2001-05, Patrick Glenn, All Rights Reserved.
The information presented here reflects solely my personal experience with my motorcycle and is presented
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Any attempts to follow or duplicate any of these procedures are done so completely at your own risk.
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