Workshop Tools

To perform routine maintenance and common repairs a proper set of tools is necessary. The tools listed here were acquired in the course of working on my bike. For the most part, I followed the 'buy as you need' philosophy, that is, I didn't buy a tool until I actually had a use for it. Whenever possible I tried to buy the best quality tool available without going overboard. Good, quality tools will last forever and they do pay for themselves. The money spent on tools easily replaces mechanics labor costs and, when the work is done, you still have the tools!

I know that showing pictures of common tools is rather silly but this is the format I've been using.

Torque Wrenches:

You will need two quality torque wrenches, one for a low range of torque values and one for the high range. No single torque wrench can handle both. I got the high range wrench new on ebay. It's not of the absolutely highest quality, but is well made, works very well and it's not used all that often; for the engine mount bolts when installing sliders, on the rear axle nut when adjusting the chain slack, and on the countertshaft sprocket nut. It doesn't have to be as precise as the low range wrench which is of much higher quality and is used much more often. For example, I use it to torque down the often-removed fuel tank hold-down bolt.

  1. 1/2" Drive 10-150 Foot-Pounds Range
  2. 3/8" Drive 25-250 Inch-Pounds Range

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Socket Wrenches, Extensions, and Adapters:

Three socket wrenches plus a 1/4" driver come in handy:

  1. 1/2" Drive 18" Long with Pivot-Head
  2. 3/8" Drive 8" Long
  3. 1/4" Drive 5" Long
  4. 1/4" Screwdriver Type Driver

The 1/2" drive wrench with the long arm is necessary for breaking the high torque spec nuts such as the rear axle nut or the countershaft sprocket nut. The 1/4" drive screwdriver is useful when a wrench is unwieldy or the fasteners aren't too tight.

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  • 1/4" Drive 3" Long
  • 1/4" Drive 6" Long
  • 3/8" Drive 3" Long (more than one of these can be useful)
  • 3/8" Drive 6" Long
  • 1/2" Drive 5" Long

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  • 1/4" Drive Socket/Bit Adapter
  • 1/4" Drive to 3/8" Socket
  • 3/8" Drive to 1/4" Socket
  • 3/8" Universal Joint Adapter for pulling the spark plugs
  • 1/2" Drive to 3/8" Socket

1600 x 1200

Sockets, Allen Heads, and Bits:

Standard sockets in both 1/4" and 3/8" drive are best in 6-Point configuration to best preserve the condition of the nuts. 12-Point sockets may be cheaper to buy but less desirable in the long run.

  • 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 mm 1/4" Drive 6-Point
  • 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 mm 3/8" Drive 6-Point

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Allen heads in 3/8" drive are indispensible.

  • 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10 mm 3/8" Drive Allen Head

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Some larger sockets must be purchased one at a time since they are not included in any sets. My local hardware stores does not carry 6-Point in the larger sizes so I settled for 12-Point since I had an immediate need. The larger sockets are all 1/2" drive.

  • 36 mm 1/2" Drive for the countershaft sprocket nut
  • 32 mm 1/2" Drive for the rear axle nut
  • 27 mm 1/2" Drive for the Triple Clamp Cap Nut (a 6-Point would really be better here to preserve the chrome finish) and for the Swingarm Bolt Nut
  • 19 mm 1/2" Drive Allen Head for the front wheel
  • 3/8" Drive 5/8" Spark Plug 6-Point

1600 x 1200

Screwdriver Bits:

  • T-20 Security Torx for the Throttle Position Sensor
  • T-30 Security Torx for the seat lock
  • 3 mm (or 7/64") Allen for the carburetor hose clamps

1600 x 1200

Flat Wrenches:

9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 mm. 10, 12, 14, & 17 mm combination wrenches come with the supplied toolkit.

1600 x 1200

Allen Keys:

1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 mm. Long handles provide extra reach and more leverage.

1600 x 1200


Phillips Head

  • 11" to reach the carburetor synchronizing screws
  • Medium
  • Small
  • Small 90-Degree for the tops of carbs #1 and #4

1600 x 1200

Flat head

  • 9" Thin, also used to pry off the carburetor synchronizing rubber caps
  • Medium
  • Small
  • 18" Gear-Driven 90-Degree Flat Head for adjusting the Carburetor Mixture Screws

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  • 11" Curved Nose for the carburetor synchronization rubber caps
  • 8" Joint
  • 6" Needle Nose
  • 7" Vice Grips for stubborn or damaged screws

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  • Steel Ruler
  • Oil Filter Wrench, Honda Part # 07HAA-PJ70100
  • Scissors
  • 1/8" Point Drift Punch for undertail punch pins
  • 20" or so Tank Prop you must make yourself
  • Feeler Gauge for Gapping Spark Plugs
  • Rear Suspension Preload Adjuster from supplied toolkit
  • Clip Holder, Inspection Mirror, Magnet with expandable reach

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  • Carbtune II Carburetor Synchronizer
  • MultiMeter for battery voltage and electrical continuity testing

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For bike modifications as well as maintenance:

  • Solid Bench Vice with Rubber Jaw Inserts
  • Air Compressor (110v) for tire inflation, cleaning up a work area, removing dust from the bike, etc.
  • MityVac Suction Tool for bleeding the brakes, removing coolant from the overflow tank
  • Steel File Assortment, Flat, Round, Triangular
  • Dremel Tool for cutting, polishing, drilling, etc.
  • 3/8" Electric Drill with assortment of drill bits
  • Hacksaw
  • Hose Clamps for the coolant lines when pulling the carburetor bank
  • Small Hammer

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Last Updated: 07-15-2003

Copyright © 2001-03, Patrick Glenn, All Rights Reserved.
Yamaha® and FZ1® are registered trademarks of the Yamaha Motor Corporation.
This site is not affiliated in any way with the Yamaha Motor Corporation.

The information presented here reflects solely my personal experience with my motorcycle and is presented for entertainment purposes only. No information presented here is to be relied upon for issues of rider safety nor to replace the services of a qualified service technician. Any attempts to follow or duplicate any of these procedures are done so completely at your own risk. By reading the information on this site, you agree to assume complete responsibility for any and all actual or consequential damages that may arise from any information presented herein.