Alternate gauge faces can add quite a bit of distinctiveness. Mine were designed by Jeff Shoemaker who is unfortunately
no longer making them.
I selected a simple blue numerals on a white face look with the factory logo in the center.
The cost of the gauge faces was about $70.
Installing these gauge faces in the combination meter is very delicate work. Work slowly and take your time.
Allow at least two hours so you won't be rushed. Do this in a clean, well illuminated area. Be especially careful
not to lose any of the small delicate parts you are removing such as the needle, or the tiny needle rest. There are
no replacement parts that I know of and you may have to buy a whole new meter assembly. Be careful also with the small
Phillips attachment screws.
Many thanks to my Dad, whose steady and patient hands did most of the delicate work here. Thanks also to Steve Wells
who provided many technical tips that made the process go much more smoothly than it otherwise would have.
In addition to the usual, you will need some non-standard tools:
- Two spoons
- A small Phillips head screwdriver
- A magnifying lens unless your near vision is perfect.
To install the gauge faces:
Disconnect the Fuel Sender Electrical Connector:
The purpose of this is to bring the fuel level gauge needle down to zero fuel level.
- Remove left side cover, one large Phillips screw.
- Disconnect fuel sender coupler.
- Turn on ignition, allow fuel gauge to settle.
- Turn off ignition.
Remove Gauge Assembly:
You may have to remove the windscreeen to obtain better access to the rear of the gauge assembly. Mine was already
off (as well as the fairing) at the time I did this installation.
- Pull off rubber connector boot.
- Disconnect wiring harness, use a flat screwdriver tip to help release the catch.
- Remove three 10mm nuts and washers.
- Lift gauge assembly off rubber grommets.
Remove Gauges From Plastic Enclosure:
- Remove seven phillips screws.
- Lift off back.
- Lift away gauges.
- Clean inside of enclosure and windows inside and out. I had an oily film on the inside of the plastic windows.
Replace Gauge Faces for the Speedometer and Tachometer:
The speedometer and tachometer work in the same way so the procedure is the same for both. Do the speedometer completely first,
then the tachometer.
- Find the needle neutral position. If you move the needle carefully clockwise about 30 degrees it
will return to its position on the needle rest. If you move it to the top of the gauge it will just
sit there. Instead move it clockwise beyond the top if the gauge to, say, 140 mph or 10000 rpm
and it will drift down to its rest position pointing almost straight down.
- Precisely mark this needle position (where it points) with a pen on the white plastic gauge frame. Do not use a mark on
the gauge face because you are taking that away.
- Protect the two small black Phillips attachment screws with masking tape.
- Use two spoons as levers by pushing down on the ends to pry off the needle. You must apply pressure
on both spoons equally or the needle or the delicate needle spindle may bend or break. This may require
some force and will make a creaking noise as the needle is pulled off.
- Place the needle in a safe place.
- Remove the masking tape and use a very small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the face on the gauge. These are
down tight and pliers were needed to assist the screwdriver with additional leverage. Be careful not to strip the heads
of the screws.
- Place the screws in a safe place, do not lose them.
- Lift off the old gauge face.
- Remove the tiny needle rest from the old gauge face. Press the old gauge face down on a flat surface
and pop it out from the back. Careful, it may fly when released and you really do not want to lose this tiny piece of plastic.
- Snap the needle rest in position on the new gauge face from the front.
- Place the new gauge face on the gauge and secure it down with the two black Phillips screws. They must be
tight or the gauge face will shift around. Try not to upset the needle spindle too much here.
- Reinstall the needle on the spindle so that it points to the mark you made earlier. Do not press the needle down all the way,
just enough so that the needle barely stays on the tiny spindle. Gently move the needle away and wait for it to return
to its rest position. If it points to your mark then you are done. If not then lift the needle off the shaft and try again.
This will take several if not more attempts. Be patient and keep trying.
- When satisfied with the needle position press it down more securely on the spindle. Now, be careful not to press
it down too far. There must be a gap between the needle and the face or it will bind. Use a paper spacer to prevent
the needle from being pressed down too far. This is difficult to do as the needle is tough to press
down and as you apply increasing force, the needle will give way all of a sudden and go down too far. Be careful here.
If you do press it down too far then you must lift it up again with thin-bladed screwdrivers underneath by
gently prying it up. Remember to place masking tape over the Phillips screws to protect them. The needle is stubborn
and breaks free all of a sudden with a screech.
- After the needle is properly aligned and returned to its neutral rest mark then gently move the needle back counter
clockwise back to, say, 60 mph or 5000 rpm, let go and the needle should drift down back on to the needle rest at 0.
You can check the position of the tachometer needle later by using the
TPS Adjustment function to verify that the needle points
to 5000 RPM. Mine was about 1/3 of a needle width low. I'm not going to bother to try and get it any better.
Replace Fuel Level Gauge Face:
The fuel level gauge needle does not have a neutral rest position. It will stop at whatever position you leave
it. You have to use a different technique because you can't verify you have reinstalled the needle at the
proper position by allowing it to settle.
- Since you earlier disconnected the fuel sender the needle should read zero or below. Mark that position.
- Remove the needle and gauge face as with the speedometer and tachometer.
- Attempt to position the needle just like you did with the speedometer and tachometer, lightly pressing
it down so it just sits on the spindle.
- Go to your motorcycle, plug in the gauge unit and turn the ignition key to ON. Be careful walking around
with the exposed gauges.
- Watch where the fuel gauge needle settles. If it does not point to your mark:
- turn off the ignition,
- gently pull off the needle and attempt to reposition it,
- turn on the ignition,
- watch where it settles.
- Repeat until the needle points to the mark.
- Turn Off the ignition.
- Push the needle all the way down using the same careful technique as with the speedometer and tachometer.
I found that with the needle fully pushed down and pointing to the empty fuel position that it could not be
rotated counterclockwise beyond its settled zero position. Like it had an internal stop.
Finish:
- Place the gauge unit in its plastic enclosure.
- Place the gauge assembly back portion on and reinstall the seven Phillips screws.
- Reattach the gauge assembly unit to the fairing stay in the grommet slots with the three nuts and washers.
- Reattach the wiring connector.
- Replace the rubber boot over the connector.
- Reconnect the fuel sender coupler.
- Reinstall the left side cover.
To Compare Before and After:
Outdoor Photos:
Last Updated: 02-19-2003
Copyright © 2001-03, Patrick Glenn, All Rights Reserved.
Yamaha® and FZ1® are registered trademarks of the Yamaha Motor Corporation.
This site is not affiliated in any way with the Yamaha Motor Corporation.
The information presented here reflects solely my personal experience with my motorcycle and is presented
for entertainment purposes only. No information presented here is to be relied upon for issues of rider safety
nor to replace the services of a qualified service technician.
Any attempts to follow or duplicate any of these procedures are done so completely at your own risk.
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